 I find myself reaching for this salad when I want something light, bright and nuanced. I usually have all the ingredients in my pantry and vegetable crisper so I can whip this together with ease.
The black eyed peas are the real stars of the show, here. Roasting them yields a lightly crispy interior that is addictive. Please do not skip roasting them! I don’t care for dates that much but I LOVE them in this salad. I tend to find them too sweet but paired with the astringent greenness of the fresh herbs they are balanced. If you wanted to bulk the recipe up even further consider adding toasted walnuts, hazelnuts or a fresh cheese like burrata or torn mozzarella.
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During my recent trip to Tucson Arizona I was able to buy several bags of tepary beans from one of the local health food stores. This was one of the few items that I knew I had to purchase while in town. I’ve used tepary beans before but have trouble sourcing them in Berkeley. Why go to all the trouble for just legumes? Simple. These small beans hold their shape after they are cooked making them ideal for salads, pilafs and toasts. They range in colors from black to white to mahogany and are mildly sweet with a smooth and creamy texture.
Nopales are another ingredient that I’ve become quite partial to but don’t cook enough with it. They are tart, with a crisp texture and can be eaten both raw or cooked. Don’t let their prickly exterior put you off. You can find them sold at many Mexican stores with their thorns already removed.  I found these beautiful beans at the Larkspur farmer’s market and my mind immediately began calculating all the ways that I could make them shine. Iacopi Farms has been growing heirloom beans in Half Moon Bay for several generations and it was very apparent that they love what they do. I only picked up two bags and this was a mistake. I am in love with the sauce that the beans are braised in and have been making variations of it for the past few weeks. I think that the key ingredient is pomegranate molasses, a Persian staple that consists of pomegranate juice that has been boiled down to a syrup. When buying, I recommend looking for one that lists pomegranate as the first ingredient, not sugar. Pomegranate molasses is sweet and tangy and enhances every dish I have added it to.  In the fall roasted vegetables are nearly always on the dinnertime menu. This recipe feels fancy but isn’t at all. By including a panoply of colors and some more unusual additions like chickpeas and fruit we elevate this classic standby. In this recipe I add some arugula to enliven the hearty, earthy root vegetables and legumes. I love the peppery flavor these greens bring to the table.
Usually hash’s are made on the stove but I find that to be a tedious use of time and lackluster results: overly mushy is some parts and not cooked enough in others. By roasting you ensure that each vegetable gets the same amount of heat. It feels fairer, right?  I like to make this soup in late summer when pepper season has just begun to crest and you know that autumn is right around the corner. There is a certain smell in the air and the way the sunlight falls causes the middle part of the day to appear fuller and richer. I think that I make this golden broth to imitate the Northern Californian sun dappled afternoons.
This is a simple but decadent soup that allows the key flavors of roasted pepper and saffron to shine. There aren’t many moving pieces to it and I find that it can be easily assembled while you are chatting distractedly or attending to a more complicated dish. Serve with a crust piece of sourdough and a simple green salad to round out your repast. |
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