During my recent trip to Tucson Arizona I was able to buy several bags of tepary beans from one of the local health food stores. This was one of the few items that I knew I had to purchase while in town. I’ve used tepary beans before but have trouble sourcing them in Berkeley. Why go to all the trouble for just legumes? Simple. These small beans hold their shape after they are cooked making them ideal for salads, pilafs and toasts. They range in colors from black to white to mahogany and are mildly sweet with a smooth and creamy texture.
Nopales are another ingredient that I’ve become quite partial to but don’t cook enough with it. They are tart, with a crisp texture and can be eaten both raw or cooked. Don’t let their prickly exterior put you off. You can find them sold at many Mexican stores with their thorns already removed.
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 I found these beautiful beans at the Larkspur farmer’s market and my mind immediately began calculating all the ways that I could make them shine. Iacopi Farms has been growing heirloom beans in Half Moon Bay for several generations and it was very apparent that they love what they do. I only picked up two bags and this was a mistake. I am in love with the sauce that the beans are braised in and have been making variations of it for the past few weeks. I think that the key ingredient is pomegranate molasses, a Persian staple that consists of pomegranate juice that has been boiled down to a syrup. When buying, I recommend looking for one that lists pomegranate as the first ingredient, not sugar. Pomegranate molasses is sweet and tangy and enhances every dish I have added it to.  In the fall roasted vegetables are nearly always on the dinnertime menu. This recipe feels fancy but isn’t at all. By including a panoply of colors and some more unusual additions like chickpeas and fruit we elevate this classic standby. In this recipe I add some arugula to enliven the hearty, earthy root vegetables and legumes. I love the peppery flavor these greens bring to the table.
Usually hash’s are made on the stove but I find that to be a tedious use of time and lackluster results: overly mushy is some parts and not cooked enough in others. By roasting you ensure that each vegetable gets the same amount of heat. It feels fairer, right?  I like to make this soup in late summer when pepper season has just begun to crest and you know that autumn is right around the corner. There is a certain smell in the air and the way the sunlight falls causes the middle part of the day to appear fuller and richer. I think that I make this golden broth to imitate the Northern Californian sun dappled afternoons.
This is a simple but decadent soup that allows the key flavors of roasted pepper and saffron to shine. There aren’t many moving pieces to it and I find that it can be easily assembled while you are chatting distractedly or attending to a more complicated dish. Serve with a crust piece of sourdough and a simple green salad to round out your repast.  Calabrian chile paste has become one of the ingredients du jour at pizzerias where pizza is taken very seriously. Hailing from the Calabria region of Italy, this pepper adds a surprising amount of heat to dishes so take note if you are not wildly fond of spicy meals. There is both a sweet and a spicy version of Calabrian pepper, which I learned the hard way. Let’s just say that not paying attention to what I was grabbing out of the pantry led to a soup that was deemed too spicy by someone who won’t travel without hot sauce or red pepper flakes in her bag.
Cooking the chickpeas with a chile de arbol infuses a subtle heat into the beans, which is lovely but the dish will still work without it. By roasting the vegetables we develop the natural sweetness in the fennel and the onion while increasing the umami flavor in the mushrooms. Both of these tastes provide a wonderful base for the Calabrian chile to really shine. |
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