 I think of this recipe as a seasonal bridge. It has a toehold in two worlds: the sunny, light days of summer and the blustery, cooler days of autumn. It is prepared with some of the last fresh tomatoes of the season which are roasted with Yukon Gold potatoes, cumin and even a few thin slices of Meyer lemon. As soon as the vegetables exit the oven they are tossed with a convivial assortment of fresh herbs and a squeeze of lemon. I love the earthy stability of the roasted veg and cumin alongside the zippy brightness of the herbs and citrus.
The contrast of fresh herbs against the savory, starchy potatoes is something that always pleases and nourishes me. Herbs to consider include parsley, tarragon, dill or cilantro. Play around with their ratios and customize it to your mood.
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 Yogurt in soup was a revelation to me. Normally dairy based soups are rich, comforting and occasionally bordering on stodgy. When milk is fermented into yogurt, lactic acid is produced, which lightens and lifts. The oyster mushroom is a wonderful, umami laden accent, both as a garnish and mixed into the body of the soup.
I have a recent obsession with Persian cookbooks and cuisine which has roughly translated to a few changes in my recipes: an increase in saffron, more fenugreek, more yogurt and adding massive amounts of herbs. This recipe is a reflection of the latter two. Depending on how “green” of a flavor you want, consider adding the herbs right before serving or before the yogurt so that they will be muted.  This salad is a wonderful way to use up a late summer glut of tomatoes. Here I call for one of my favorite varieties, the Early Girl. Early girls have thicker skins and are often dry farmed in Northern California. This results in wedges that are less likely to fall apart in salads and a more concentrated tomato flavor that will uplift any recipe.
This dish should really only be made in the summer and early fall when the tomatoes are in season and taste as tomatoes should: tangy, sweet and just a hint of richness. It’s also a terrific way of using up bread that has been lingering in your pantry too long and has gone stale. If you don’t have stale bread simply toast the bread cubes in the oven until they crisp up. |
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