 Spring vegetables are slowly making their way to the Bay Area farmer’s markets and this means leeks. I love leeks. I love all members of the allium family, to be fair. Leeks have a more mild flavor than an onion but less of a vegetal greeness than a scallion.
It’s true that leeks require more work than a shallot or garlic clove. They grow in such a way that dirt often gets in between the leaves which require the cook to carefully inspect and wash accordingly. I usually shave the root end off but just barely. I want to make sure that the bottom still remains intact. Then I trim off the deep green leaves, reserving them for stock. Slice the white and light green remainder lengthwise and place under running water to remove any dirt or mud that may have accumulated there. Easy peasy! Are you familiar with Tibetan purple barley? It is a beautiful grain and I love having it in my pantry. It’s sturdy and has a very chewy, toothsome texture. If you can’t track it down then feel free to substitute regular pearled barley, quinoa or wheat berries.
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 Sometimes leeks get overlooked because they are more labor intensive than onions or shallots but I think that the flavor they bring is worth it. They have a more muted "oniony" taste and bring both sweetness and a fresh greeness.
Leek and potato soup is a classic. I’ve had versions that were a bit too plain for my tastes so I have enlivened it by using two tangy ingredients: white wine and crème fraîche. Both of these additions cut through the heaviness of the potato and elevate the natural sweetness of the leeks. By roasting 1 of the leeks we add a deeper and richer element that grounds and rounds out the entire soup. Consider serving with a thick slice of either rye or sourdough bread and a generously sized salad.  Typically leek and potato soups are a bit on the heavier side. Starchy and solid, like a comforting sweater. I decided to lighten it up a bit by reducing the amount of potato used, blending in a light miso and finishing with fresh lemon. However, if I'm being honest, the whole thing is just a carrier for the shiitake bacon. Crispy, salty and super savory, this garnish is the showstopper. If you know anyone who claims to dislike mushrooms make these and help them see the light.
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