 Yogurt in soup was a revelation to me. Normally dairy based soups are rich, comforting and occasionally bordering on stodgy. When milk is fermented into yogurt, lactic acid is produced, which lightens and lifts. The oyster mushroom is a wonderful, umami laden accent, both as a garnish and mixed into the body of the soup.
I have a recent obsession with Persian cookbooks and cuisine which has roughly translated to a few changes in my recipes: an increase in saffron, more fenugreek, more yogurt and adding massive amounts of herbs. This recipe is a reflection of the latter two. Depending on how “green” of a flavor you want, consider adding the herbs right before serving or before the yogurt so that they will be muted.
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 Calabrian chile paste has become one of the ingredients du jour at pizzerias where pizza is taken very seriously. Hailing from the Calabria region of Italy, this pepper adds a surprising amount of heat to dishes so take note if you are not wildly fond of spicy meals. There is both a sweet and a spicy version of Calabrian pepper, which I learned the hard way. Let’s just say that not paying attention to what I was grabbing out of the pantry led to a soup that was deemed too spicy by someone who won’t travel without hot sauce or red pepper flakes in her bag.
Cooking the chickpeas with a chile de arbol infuses a subtle heat into the beans, which is lovely but the dish will still work without it. By roasting the vegetables we develop the natural sweetness in the fennel and the onion while increasing the umami flavor in the mushrooms. Both of these tastes provide a wonderful base for the Calabrian chile to really shine.  Typically leek and potato soups are a bit on the heavier side. Starchy and solid, like a comforting sweater. I decided to lighten it up a bit by reducing the amount of potato used, blending in a light miso and finishing with fresh lemon. However, if I'm being honest, the whole thing is just a carrier for the shiitake bacon. Crispy, salty and super savory, this garnish is the showstopper. If you know anyone who claims to dislike mushrooms make these and help them see the light.
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