 Ume vinegar is an all star ingredient and deserves a place in your pantry. It’s not made in the traditional way of most vinegars, rather it is the resulting brine from the umeboshi making process. Ume plums are salted and then weighted down. As time passes the salt draws out the moisture from the plums creating a tart brine that immerses and preserves the plums.
In this picnic friendly salad the vinegar gives a lift and brightness to the neutral and sturdy potatoes. The dill lends a cool, green overtone while the fennel imparts a crisp sweetness to the dish. You can serve this dish hot or cold and I find that it’s even better the next day.
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A recent trip to the Larkspur farmer’s market yielded many edible gems that are not generally available at my usual market in Oakland. I was particularly taken by the “greens bar” that showcased an assortment of hearty winter greens like red frill and radicchio. I got a large bag and set out planning a variety of salads for the week.
Members of the chicory family (ex. radicchio) are often bitter, which can be off putting to some people. I try to remedy this by using maple syrup in the dressing, adding the piecing sourness of the kumquat and by adding roasted, jerked pumpkin seeds. The roasted pumpkin seeds on their own are earthy and bring balance to bitter foods. I wanted to guild them so that they would be even better dance partners for the chicories. Jerk seasoning hails from Jamaica and is often comprised of allspice, scotch bonnet peppers, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, sugar and salt. If you don’t have this mixture in your pantry, consider using curry powder. If you are a minimalist, a generous pinch of chile flakes will suffice.  Spring vegetables are slowly making their way to the Bay Area farmer’s markets and this means leeks. I love leeks. I love all members of the allium family, to be fair. Leeks have a more mild flavor than an onion but less of a vegetal greeness than a scallion.
It’s true that leeks require more work than a shallot or garlic clove. They grow in such a way that dirt often gets in between the leaves which require the cook to carefully inspect and wash accordingly. I usually shave the root end off but just barely. I want to make sure that the bottom still remains intact. Then I trim off the deep green leaves, reserving them for stock. Slice the white and light green remainder lengthwise and place under running water to remove any dirt or mud that may have accumulated there. Easy peasy! Are you familiar with Tibetan purple barley? It is a beautiful grain and I love having it in my pantry. It’s sturdy and has a very chewy, toothsome texture. If you can’t track it down then feel free to substitute regular pearled barley, quinoa or wheat berries.  In the fall roasted vegetables are nearly always on the dinnertime menu. This recipe feels fancy but isn’t at all. By including a panoply of colors and some more unusual additions like chickpeas and fruit we elevate this classic standby. In this recipe I add some arugula to enliven the hearty, earthy root vegetables and legumes. I love the peppery flavor these greens bring to the table.
Usually hash’s are made on the stove but I find that to be a tedious use of time and lackluster results: overly mushy is some parts and not cooked enough in others. By roasting you ensure that each vegetable gets the same amount of heat. It feels fairer, right?  This salad is a wonderful way to use up a late summer glut of tomatoes. Here I call for one of my favorite varieties, the Early Girl. Early girls have thicker skins and are often dry farmed in Northern California. This results in wedges that are less likely to fall apart in salads and a more concentrated tomato flavor that will uplift any recipe.
This dish should really only be made in the summer and early fall when the tomatoes are in season and taste as tomatoes should: tangy, sweet and just a hint of richness. It’s also a terrific way of using up bread that has been lingering in your pantry too long and has gone stale. If you don’t have stale bread simply toast the bread cubes in the oven until they crisp up. |
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