 This is one of the recipes you reach for when the garden is in full production mode and you can’t keep up. It’s extraordinarily versatile and can be used to enhance all manner of dishes: add it to pizza along with some burrata and fresh basil. Fold it into pasta along with capers, olives and chile flakes for an avante garde version of pasta puttanesca. Smear a thin layer of white miso on toast and top with the tomatoes, flaky salt and a drizzle of the reserved oil. Pulse in a blender to create a base for an incredibly flavorful tomato soup. And on and on...
It is essential that you use seasonal tomatoes and some of the best olive oil your budget will allow. I love using this infused oil to finish soups, dip bread in and on and on...
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In the summer I like to buy flats of tomatoes from local farms and then spend the next few days in the kitchen transforming them. Holding a sturdy cardboard box of these heirloom jewels makes me feel rich. If you can, use dry farmed tomatoes for this recipe. Dry farming is when watering and irrigation is discontinued once the plants become established. The result? A brilliant water saving measure AND the most flavorful tomatoes you will ever have the pleasure of putting into your mouth. Dry farming is easier done in places that have rainfall patterns like California: a rainy winter and a precipitation free summer. So if you aren’t able to easily acquire these gems, don’t fret. The best tomatoes are still the ones that grow closest to you.
Shio koji is a salty, umami packed paste made from salt, water and, of course, koji. Koji is a brilliant Japanese ingredient that is made when a grain, usually rice, has been inoculated with the fungus Aspergillus oryzae and left to ferment for a few days. The fungus slowly digests both the proteins and the starches in the grain which results in a both a higher level of sugar and a higher level of free amino acids. The star amino acid is glutamic acid, which imparts savoriness to foods. Have you ever wondered what MSG, the darling of the packaged food world, stands for? Monosodium glutamate. Basically it is an isolated and refined form of what we are tasting when we eat Parmesan cheese, sun-dried tomatoes and miso. This is one recipe that is a bit labor intensive but a little goes a long way and I promise that you will thank yourself when you are able to doctor up your soups, pastas and beans with a spoonful of this tangy, umamilicious concentrate.  I found these beautiful beans at the Larkspur farmer’s market and my mind immediately began calculating all the ways that I could make them shine. Iacopi Farms has been growing heirloom beans in Half Moon Bay for several generations and it was very apparent that they love what they do. I only picked up two bags and this was a mistake. I am in love with the sauce that the beans are braised in and have been making variations of it for the past few weeks. I think that the key ingredient is pomegranate molasses, a Persian staple that consists of pomegranate juice that has been boiled down to a syrup. When buying, I recommend looking for one that lists pomegranate as the first ingredient, not sugar. Pomegranate molasses is sweet and tangy and enhances every dish I have added it to.  This salad is a wonderful way to use up a late summer glut of tomatoes. Here I call for one of my favorite varieties, the Early Girl. Early girls have thicker skins and are often dry farmed in Northern California. This results in wedges that are less likely to fall apart in salads and a more concentrated tomato flavor that will uplift any recipe.
This dish should really only be made in the summer and early fall when the tomatoes are in season and taste as tomatoes should: tangy, sweet and just a hint of richness. It’s also a terrific way of using up bread that has been lingering in your pantry too long and has gone stale. If you don’t have stale bread simply toast the bread cubes in the oven until they crisp up. |
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