 I think of this recipe as a seasonal bridge. It has a toehold in two worlds: the sunny, light days of summer and the blustery, cooler days of autumn. It is prepared with some of the last fresh tomatoes of the season which are roasted with Yukon Gold potatoes, cumin and even a few thin slices of Meyer lemon. As soon as the vegetables exit the oven they are tossed with a convivial assortment of fresh herbs and a squeeze of lemon. I love the earthy stability of the roasted veg and cumin alongside the zippy brightness of the herbs and citrus.
The contrast of fresh herbs against the savory, starchy potatoes is something that always pleases and nourishes me. Herbs to consider include parsley, tarragon, dill or cilantro. Play around with their ratios and customize it to your mood.
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 I love adding fruit to my salsas, both to add nuanced sweetness as well as to temper the dip’s spiciness. When making a fermented salsa the fruit’s natural sugars help to expedite fermentation, which can be helpful as temperatures begin to dip. I’m still able to get both tomatoes, peppers and even stone fruit at the farmers market (one of the big perks of living in California!) so this recipe is a no brainer.
I used a Fresno pepper because it has a robust amount of heat and it is red, which blends nicely with the other colors in the salsa. You can substitute with another chile of choice or omit entirely depending on your heat preference and tolerance.  This is a very simple and delicious way to incorporate end of season tomatoes into a quick and delectable side. Gratins are both a dish and a technique. They are made when you brown the top of a dish often using a combination of breadcrumbs, cheese and egg. I typically find that the filling below the crispy crust is rich and creamy, a wonderful contrast. No complaints here but it's been mild in the San Francisco Bay Area and wanted to do something that was on the lighter, brighter side.
It's no secret that I am a HUGE fan of miso and try to incorporate it any which way that I can. By mixing the miso into the panko mixture you are turning up the dial on the flavor, specifically umami. That goes double for adding the Parmesan cheese. For best results, use the ripest, juiciest tomatoes that you can get your hands on.  This is one of the recipes you reach for when the garden is in full production mode and you can’t keep up. It’s extraordinarily versatile and can be used to enhance all manner of dishes: add it to pizza along with some burrata and fresh basil. Fold it into pasta along with capers, olives and chile flakes for an avante garde version of pasta puttanesca. Smear a thin layer of white miso on toast and top with the tomatoes, flaky salt and a drizzle of the reserved oil. Pulse in a blender to create a base for an incredibly flavorful tomato soup. And on and on...
It is essential that you use seasonal tomatoes and some of the best olive oil your budget will allow. I love using this infused oil to finish soups, dip bread in and on and on... In the summer I like to buy flats of tomatoes from local farms and then spend the next few days in the kitchen transforming them. Holding a sturdy cardboard box of these heirloom jewels makes me feel rich. If you can, use dry farmed tomatoes for this recipe. Dry farming is when watering and irrigation is discontinued once the plants become established. The result? A brilliant water saving measure AND the most flavorful tomatoes you will ever have the pleasure of putting into your mouth. Dry farming is easier done in places that have rainfall patterns like California: a rainy winter and a precipitation free summer. So if you aren’t able to easily acquire these gems, don’t fret. The best tomatoes are still the ones that grow closest to you.
Shio koji is a salty, umami packed paste made from salt, water and, of course, koji. Koji is a brilliant Japanese ingredient that is made when a grain, usually rice, has been inoculated with the fungus Aspergillus oryzae and left to ferment for a few days. The fungus slowly digests both the proteins and the starches in the grain which results in a both a higher level of sugar and a higher level of free amino acids. The star amino acid is glutamic acid, which imparts savoriness to foods. Have you ever wondered what MSG, the darling of the packaged food world, stands for? Monosodium glutamate. Basically it is an isolated and refined form of what we are tasting when we eat Parmesan cheese, sun-dried tomatoes and miso. This is one recipe that is a bit labor intensive but a little goes a long way and I promise that you will thank yourself when you are able to doctor up your soups, pastas and beans with a spoonful of this tangy, umamilicious concentrate. |
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