The Ayurvedic Facial

This ritual is a love letter to myself.

I've long been interested in self care rituals that both enhance and preserve beauty. When I was in Kerala in 2018 I leapt at the chance to take a course on Ayurvedic Beauty from the school I was doing my 3-week Ayurvedic detoxification at. We studied many aspects of beauty from hair to eyes to hands. However, I was most interested in how to nourish and protect the skin on my face. The following ritual was one of the highlights of the course.

1. Cleanse
2. Facial Massage with Oil
3. Steam or Warm Compress
4. Scrub
5. Mask and/or Pack
6. Toning
7. Moisturizing

1. Cleanse
To begin, ensure that your face is free of excess sebum, dirt and makeup. This will ensure that the treatments to follow will be more effective. Use a gentle cleanser of choice.

2. Facial Massage with Oil
Using a non-comedogenic oil like jojoba massage the face. This will improve circulation and blood flow. The oil is lubricating and helps to rejuvenate and revitalize the skin. Do this for a few minutes and take your time.

3. Steam or Warm Compress
Boil a mixture of herbs of your choice. If your skin is inflamed, favor calming ones like chamomile or rose. If your skin is clogged and stagnant favor mint, eucalyptus or lemongrass. Once the water is boiling, reduce to a simmer and place your face over the pot. Create a tent over your head to allow the steam to concentrate further. Take care to cover your eyes as the eyelids are thin.

This dissolves deep seated impurities and is particularly beneficial for people who suffer from acne or congested skin. It is soothing and stimulates circulation.  

Another option is to make a warm compress. Start out by bring a mixture of herbs of your choice to a boil. Reduce to a simmer for approximately 5 minutes. Strain out the plant detritus and  carefully soak a clean washcloth in the resulting liquid. With tongs, remove washcloth setting aside for a little bit until you can touch it without burning yourself. Squeeze out excess moisture and cover face with the cloth. You are free to repeat this cycle a few times.

Note that if you complete this at a Korean bathhouse simply going into the wet sauna will be more than enough.

4. Scrub
It is important to use very finely ground herbs and powders to avoid damaging the skin. Common ones are chickpea flour, rice flour and oat flour. You can thin with honey, hydrosols, lemon juice and/or water. Each scrub will have approximately 2 tsp worth of powder.

Apply the scrub and allow to stay on your face for 3-5 minutes. Do not allow it to dry completely. Carefully rub the mixture on your face in small circles. This scrub will aid with the removal of black heads and white heads as well as removing dirt and dead skin. Properly scrubbed skin has more luster.

5. Mask and/or Pack
Masks and packs are similar but not the same. Masks tend to be thicker and more powerful than packs. Packs are thinner, gentler and may be left on longer since they allow the face to breathe better. Note, that if you use a pack then there is no need to tone.

Common mask ingredients include: various kinds of clays, flours, sandalwood powder and nut flours.

Common pack ingredients include: pureed fruits and vegetables like banana, avocado, strawberry, cucumber and/or papaya.

The purpose of this step is to deeply penetrate and nourish the skin as well as detoxify and clear pores. It rejuvenates by stimulating deeper levels of the skin.

6. Toning
Toners are used to refresh the skin as well as to dissolve and remove any remaining reside from the former treatments. Hydrosols of any sort may be used as well as aloe vera or herbal waters. I like to use a toner that contains glycolic acid at night. Glycolic acid encourages cell turnover revealing plump, hydrated skin underneath. I let it sit for a minute before applying anything to allow it to penetrate better. Do not use this when you are going to be in the sun a lot as it may increase your chances of getting burned. Other toners I like include witch hazel and rose water.

7. Moisturizing
This is the final step and I like to think of it as a seal for your skin; a way to create a subtle protective barrier. Use an oil and/or cream of your choice. Don't forget your neck.

Final Thoughts
Ideally I like to do this at a Korean bathhouse because it can get a bit messy. Also, because you can't bring your phone with you. There is a time and a place to use your device and I strongly feel that phone use during this supremely decadent self-care ritual is counter-productive. If you are at home, put your phone in airplane mode or turn it off completely.

Whenever I take the time to do this ritual I feel so nourished and complete. Of course, if you truly don't have the time to complete all 7 steps then do what you can. 3 steps are better than no steps at all. Sometimes a simple 5 minute mask can do wonders for both my skin and mental state. At then end of the day you get to make the call on how to best nurture yourself. I hope that this rituals helps even just a little bit.